Teacup puppies for sale,    Chihuahua Puppies   Yorkies    Yorkie   Maltese   Pomeranians    Poodles   Yorkshire Terriers

.

Without a doubt one of the most enjoyable aspects of having a puppy is the boundless energy and curiosity that they bring to the family. Making time to play with your puppy is probably the single most important aspect of helping your puppy become a well-adjusted, well-behaved dog. Playtime is when the puppy learns to trust their owners, when the bonding occurs and when the puppy learns how to interact with people. Puppies that are not played with and handled in positive and loving ways grow up to be aggressive or timid dogs, shy or very defensive and even vicious. Puppies that learn that people are kind, loving and safe will be calm, loving and social pets.

Puppy playtime needs to include several different elements beyond just having fun and bonding. Playtime is when owners can watch for signs of the puppies personality developing and also look for any possible problems in dominance, aggression or stubbornness. Puppies that are very aggressive in play are likely to be more dominant in training, less likely to be easy to work with and more likely to be dog aggressive without additional socialization and obedience training. Puppies that are very timid in play will be more likely to be hard to train because of submissive behaviors, more problematic to housetrain and less likely to be good dogs for families with kids. Thankfully both of these issues can be worked on through socialization, lots of positive interactions and time and energy on the part of the both the puppy and the owner.

To find the right type of play it is important to know about the general characteristics of your breed of puppy. Some puppies such as terriers, working breeds and gun dog breeds tend to like games that include a mental challenge. Games such as hide and seek, fetch and retrieve and even find specific items are all great for this group of puppies. They want to be both physically and mentally challenged when they are playing. These dogs are also likely to amaze owners with their problem solving abilities even at a young age.

Other breeds may enjoy play as more interactive with the owners. They will want to run along side, play with a rope toy by running with you or just romp around with the kids. Some dogs are not as playful by nature even as puppies however they will still enjoy being involved with the family in a game of tag or just playing alongside the family. Most puppies will play equally well inside as well as outside however the larger breeds typically are taught to only play outside due to space issues and possible destruction in the house if play gets to rough!

Toys to have on hand

No matter what breed of dog you have there are an amazing number of toys and chew items on the market. For very small and very large breeds of dogs the selection at pet stores may be limited, but the internet provides a wealth of sites selling specialty toys and games for all types of dogs. Some basics to have on hand for a variety of choice for playtime include:

Hard rubber balls of varying sizes. Be careful that there are no toys or balls small enough for the puppy to swallow, keep to bigger rather than smaller sizes.

Kongs or other hard rubber shaped toys that can be used for fetch or even for "Catch me if you can" type games of chase. Chase games should be avoided if you are teaching or planning to teach the fetch or retrieve command.

Knotted ropes. These are great for dogs to carry around and play with. Don't use them as tug of war toys with a puppy that is showing any signs of aggression or dominance or with a breed that is known for these traits.

Squeaky toys. These are great for small to medium sized puppies but large puppies usually destroy them very quickly to get at the noisemaker inside. Use these with extreme caution and don't leave them out as a toy for puppies to play with when unsupervised as they do pose a choking hazard if the puppy bites through the outer plastic.

Frisbees are great for older puppies but will be too hard for young puppies to follow as they move so fast. Always be careful to avoid throwing the Frisbee too high and encouraging the puppy to jump while running, this can lead to serious accidents.

Play can also involve setting up fun kind of obstacle course for the puppy to play in. Puppies love to climb and explore, but be sure that everything is safe and secure to avoid any falls.

If the family has children it is very important to teach the kids how to play with the puppy. Even large breed puppies can be easily injured very unintentionally by a child, leaving the child feeling horrible and the puppy hurt. Simply reviewing some basic rules to playing with a puppy is usually all that parents have to do, especially with older children. Toy breed puppies typically should not be played with by kids in the traditional sense of the word simply because they really are fragile and easily very seriously hurt by any rough handling.

Play should always be safe for the puppy as well as the family. No rough behavior, aggression or biting on the part of the puppy towards any family member should be allowed. If the puppy does bite or show aggression the game should stop immediately until the puppy is calm and ready to play appropriately.

Playtime with other dogs and other pets is also a great way for a puppy to get exercise. If you do have an older dog or cat be sure to introduce the puppy to your current pet before leaving them alone unsupervised. If you have a puppy and a kitten it is a good idea to do the same, especially if one is much larger in physical sized than the other. Often dogs and cats will bond very closely to a puppy and will enjoy playing and interacting, but will also have to deal with the puppy's high energy level. If you have a senior dog you may need to find a way to allow the senior dog to get away from the puppy, especially if the puppy is a high-energy breed.

PUPPY PLAYTIME (PLAYTIME FOR PUPPIES)

Without a doubt one of the most enjoyable aspects of having a puppy is the boundless energy and curiosity that they bring to the family. Making time to play with your puppy is probably the single most important aspect of helping your puppy become a well-adjusted, well-behaved dog. Playtime is when the puppy learns to trust their owners, when the bonding occurs and when the puppy learns how to interact with people. Puppies that are not played with and handled in positive and loving ways grow up to be aggressive or timid dogs, shy or very defensive and even vicious. Puppies that learn that people are kind, loving and safe will be calm, loving and social pets.

Puppy playtime needs to include several different elements beyond just having fun and bonding. Playtime is when owners can watch for signs of the puppies personality developing and also look for any possible problems in dominance, aggression or stubbornness. Puppies that are very aggressive in play are likely to be more dominant in training, less likely to be easy to work with and more likely to be dog aggressive without additional socialization and obedience training. Puppies that are very timid in play will be more likely to be hard to train because of submissive behaviors, more problematic to housetrain and less likely to be good dogs for families with kids. Thankfully both of these issues can be worked on through socialization, lots of positive interactions and time and energy on the part of the both the puppy and the owner.

To find the right type of play it is important to know about the general characteristics of your breed of puppy. Some puppies such as terriers, working breeds and gun dog breeds tend to like games that include a mental challenge. Games such as hide and seek, fetch and retrieve and even find specific items are all great for this group of puppies. They want to be both physically and mentally challenged when they are playing. These dogs are also likely to amaze owners with their problem solving abilities even at a young age.

Other breeds may enjoy play as more interactive with the owners. They will want to run along side, play with a rope toy by running with you or just romp around with the kids. Some dogs are not as playful by nature even as puppies however they will still enjoy being involved with the family in a game of tag or just playing alongside the family. Most puppies will play equally well inside as well as outside however the larger breeds typically are taught to only play outside due to space issues and possible destruction in the house if play gets to rough!

 BATHING A PUPPY

Bathing a puppy (puppies) the right way takes time, organization and a lot of work in most cases. The larger the puppy (puppies) the more of a challenge bath time will be if the puppy (puppies) is not properly trained to get into the bath, stand still, and then get out of the bath on command. Many people with large and giant breeds rarely if every bath their puppy (puppies), which is often the best possible option for the puppy (puppies)'s coat and skin.

Unlike people, puppy (puppies)s don't sweat through their skin so they typically don't have lots of odors. A puppy (puppies)gy smell, especially when the puppy (puppies) is wet, is due largely to dander that is built up between the skin and the hair, and this can be removed with regular brushing. Even most puppy (puppies) hair will repel both water and dirt as it contains natural oils that are there just to provide this protection to the hair. Bathing a puppy (puppies) using shampoo and conditioner does strip these natural oils. Many people that bath their puppy (puppies)s on a weekly, monthly or even every other month may be contributing to skin allergies, rashes, infections and dry, dull and limp looking hair for the puppy (puppies). Most breeds should only be fully bathed when absolutely necessary and there is no option for using a dry powder or grooming to clean the puppy (puppies).

Supplies and Products

There are many puppy (puppies) shampoos and conditioners on the market that are specially designed with a puppy (puppies)'s hair and skin pH taken into consideration. These products are typically more expensive than the pet store brand puppy (puppies) shampoo and conditioner, but may be the difference between a dull coat and a shiny and healthy looking coat for some breeds. If you know that the breed you own is prone to skin allergies, hot spots, rashes or other irritations or skin conditions it is a wise idea to go with the specialty, non-allergic type products. Shampoos and conditioners for puppy (puppies)s with oatmeal and aloe ingredients may be gentler and less problematic. In addition to shampoos and conditioners a good puppy (puppies) hair detangler and a finishing leave in condition may also be beneficial to have on hand.

Before getting the puppy (puppies) into the tub or sink or puppy (puppies) bath, be sure to have everything you need. A hand held shower wand is a wonderful option, but a plastic pitcher can be used as well. Have the shampoo, conditioner, water, buckets, towels and a dry cloth on hand just in case. In addition a non-slip or skid mat in the bottom of the tub or sink will help make the puppy (puppies) feel more secure and prevent any possibility of a slip and an injury. Most puppy (puppies) baths will already have a texturized bottom for easy traction.

Strategies and techniques

Once all your supplies are ready and within easy reach, the next step is to bring the puppy (puppies). Depending on the breed of puppy (puppies) you own some breeders recommend grooming and detangling before bathing and some recommend after. If you are not sure, call a breeder and ask. Most puppy (puppies)s are OK with water, as long as it is not poured over their heads. Start by having the puppy (puppies) stand or sit in the tub or sink and let them become calm in the bath. Holding the puppy (puppies) firmly by the collar, start to pour warm but not hot water over the puppy (puppies), ideally using the shower wand. Once the puppy (puppies) is wet all over, apply some shampoo to your hands, work up and lather, then pull through the coat using your fingers from the neck to the hips, only moving your hands in the direction of hair growth. NEVER rub or use circular motions to work the shampoo into the puppy (puppies)s hair if you have a double coated breed or a medium or long haired breed, it will just make a huge mat of hair. Also, don't put any water near the face or ears, this can be washed with a cloth later on.

After the shampoo has been worked through the hair from the neck to the rump, use the wand and completely rinse any and all soap residue. Use your hand to gentle and carefully push the hair back and away from the skin and ensure that every last bit of soap is off the hair, even down by the skin. This is absolutely critical to avoid skin irritations. Once the puppy (puppies) is completely rinsed, apply the conditioner in the same fashion, never rubbing, only stroking it through the hair in the direction of growth. Completely rinse all conditioner out of the hair and check to make sure there is no left over residue.

At this time you can use a damp cloth with clean, warm water to gently wash the face and ears. Never put water into the ears or pour water over the puppy (puppies)'s head. Don't use soap around the eyes or ears, just warm, clear water. Typically the hair on the face is very short in most breeds and won't need much attention. Breeds with a beard or moustache or long topknot may need additional attention on a daily basis to keep this longer hair clean.

Always watch your puppy (puppies) for signs of anxiety and stress. Speak reassuringly and be sure to have a few treats on hand to keep the puppy (puppies) attentive in the process. When getting the puppy (puppies) out of the tub or bath be sure to give the command and help the puppy (puppies) so he or she doesn't slip and possibly get injured. Avoid just allowing the puppy (puppies) to jump out on his or her own.

Dry powders

Dry grooming powders are available in most pet supply stores. These are a great way to freshen up the puppy (puppies) between baths. They are simple to use, just sprinkle on and groom out. These powders typically don't cause any skin irritations in most breeds but if your puppy (puppies) is prone to skin allergies you may wish to talk to your vet before using a dry powder.

STAGES OF PUPPY DEVELOPMENT

Once the puppies are born, it is amazing how fast they grow and mature. It is not uncommon for puppies to change behaviors almost overnight, so clearly understanding the various stages that puppies of all breeds go through is important. As a general rule, smaller breeds of dogs will mature more quickly than larger breeds. Giant breeds of dogs often take almost twice the time to fully mature (both physically and emotionally) than the small breeds. There are also some breeds that stay very playful and puppyish even into their senior years. The following information is a general guideline to the specific and identifiable stages of puppy development, but keep in mind the actual ages they occur in may vary from the numbers listed here.

Newborn Stage

This stage is considered to last from the time that the puppies are born, until their eyes open and their eyesight develops. For most breeds this will be typically be at the two to three week mark. After the puppies eyes open, he or she will respond to a friendly voice, notice movement in the space around him or her, as well as get to know the littermates and the mother. Puppies will rely on the dam for everything from food to warmth, and they will be relatively inactive and will not want to wander far from where Mom and brothers and sisters are. The newborn puppies will become very agitated when they are removed from the litter, or from a familiar area such as the whelping box. They may also start to move around and try to walk, but they will be very clumsy and will become tired rather quickly.

Awareness Stage

From about three to five weeks the puppy is being bombarded with all types of sensory development. They are able to see very clearly, and will be able to identify the people in their lives that are regulars to the whelping area. The puppies are starting to learn a slight amount of independence, but they are also very attached to the mother at this time. They are becoming more adventurous, and will often explore all areas of the area they are being kept in. Many people transition the puppies from the whelping area to a kennel or puppy room, where the puppies can start moving around more and exploring. Puppies at this stage will be very interested at new additions to their environment, and will look towards new sounds and new visual stimulation. They should be protected from sudden noises or loud sounds that may frighten the puppies.

Basic Learning Stage

From about four to eight weeks, puppies start to learn how to get along with other dogs. One of the most important things that they learn is bite inhibition, or to avoid hurting other littermates. If you watch puppies playing at this time they will play, then when one bites too hard they will yelp and run off, leaving the biter alone and isolated. In addition, the mother dog also starts to train the puppies to relieve themselves away from where they sleep and eat, and she will also start to wean the puppies. At this time, the owners need to start introducing both food and water to the puppies, gradually helping the mother to wean the puppies. By the end of this stage, the puppies should be completely transitioned to puppy food and water, and should not be nursing from the dam.

This is the key socialization stage in puppies, one that will help the puppy to understand how interaction works both with other dogs and with humans. Puppies need to have as much contact as possible with littermates and the mother dog at this time, and should not be removed from the littermates until this stage is completed. Many breeders of larger dogs now keep the puppies for up to twelve weeks, rather than the traditional eight to allow this social training to be completed.

Puppies at this age should not be punished for any mistakes they may make. This can include accidents in housetraining, mouthing or chewing, or even barking and crying.

Rapid Learning Stage

From eight weeks to about 14 weeks puppies are really into high gear with regards to learning. They will go through various periods where they are very courageous and bold, and other times where they appear to be terrified of almost everything they come in contact with. Socialization and bonding, as well as exposing the puppy to lots of positive situations is critical at this stage. Once puppies learn that you, as the owner, will protect them and never ask them to do something that they could become hurt doing, they will learn trust.

In this stage the puppy can start to learn basic commands such as come, sit and lie down. They should also be exposed to a leash and collar, although they may not understand the whole concept of being on a leash. It is very important to not jerk or pull the puppy with the leash, and to keep all the training positive. Never punish or harshly treat the puppy at this stage, as this can seriously affect the temperament of the puppy for the rest of his or her life. Most puppies will benefit from a puppy obedience class at this time.

The Teenage Years

Just like kids, puppies will go through a teenage stage, which is both challenging and somewhat frustrating for the owners and the puppy. Typically, puppies in this stage will show extreme independence and selective hearing in responding to commands. Independence is more pronounced in some breeds than others, but even the most obedient of teenage dogs will go through non-compliance phases. Even though the natural response may be to punish or chastise the juvenile dogs for this apparent misbehavior, remember it is part of their emotional growth.

In the teenage years, dogs may also be rather clumsy and rambunctious. Lots of exercise for small to medium sized breeds and moderate, reasonable exercise for larger breeds is critical before, during and after training sessions to maximum focus on the training activities. More advanced obedience classes are highly recommended for breeds that are prone to independence as mature dogs.

Young Adult

Depending on the breed of the dogs, the young adult stage usually lasts up to first year to two years. During this time the dog is very energetic, still actively learning and very interested in everything in the environment. The young adult dog may also go through periods of dog aggression, chasing, barking, digging or even other destructive behaviors. Usually these behaviors can be modified with training, lots of attention and exercise and just a bit of creativity on the part of the owner.

Talk to a breeder or your veterinarian to discuss any concerns you have with the changes in his or her behavior. In addition, read about the traits of the breed as they develop, as well as talk to other owners of the breed to be able to plan the best course of action for the stages of growth.

BASIC COMMANDS FOR AN PUPPY OBEDIENCE

It is important to teach your puppy and young dog some basic commands that are used in obedience training or just to have a well-behaved dog no matter where you may choose to take your dog. These commands are simple and are not difficult for most puppies and dogs to learn provided they are given lots of practice and time to learn. Remember that each dog, regardless of breed characteristics, is an individual. Each dog or puppy will learn some things more quickly than others, and some dogs, regardless of what the breed is known for, may just not have the characteristic or ability. Keeping this in mind will help owners from being frustrated with their puppy or dog. Look for the things that your dog is good at or excels at and don't expect them to learn every other trick that you have seen a dog of their breed do.

Some of the basic commands are the easiest to teach as they tend to be naturally occurring behaviors in puppies and dogs. The "come" command is one of the first commands to teach and most puppies are naturals at learning this basic command. As they get older they may choose not to respond to "come" when they are out exploring, playing or busy doing something they like, but they still understand the concept. If your puppy or dog does not come on command, go back and re-teach this using NILF training or any other method until the dog or puppy is responding 100% of the time. Once this is under control you are prepared to move forward.

Sit

There are several different ways to teach your puppy or dog to sit. The first and most natural way is to simply watch for the puppy or dog to sit without being commanded. If you are using a clicker give a click and a reward, if you are not using the clicker method simply say "sit" and give the reward. The puppy won't catch on as to why they are being rewarded for taking a break, but they will figure it out with repetition. Once the puppy seems to look at you for a reward when he or she sits, start giving the command and looking for the desired response. Reward as soon as the bottom touches the ground in the sitting posture.

If the puppy doesn't seem to understand the verbal cue you can use their own natural instincts to help them remember. Have a very tiny treat in your fingers, something that the puppy knows and loves like a healthy dog treat cut into small pieces. Hold this time just above the tip of the puppies nose and slide it back towards the top of their head, saying the word "sit". As the puppy leans back with its nose to follow the treat, his or her hind end will automatically go down, give the treat as soon as the puppy's rump is in the ground. If the puppy jumps up you are moving the treat too slowly or your hand is too high above their head.

Never, ever, ever, push down on a puppy or dog's hips to make them sit. This can cause serious problems with the hips on some breeds and can also cause the puppy to snap if it is painful.

Stay

Once the puppy has mastered sit, stay is the next command. Start by having the puppy sit, say "Stay" and take once step away. If the puppy stays in place for a few seconds, step back and provide a treat. If the puppy gets up, simply have them sit and repeat the process until they stay for just a few seconds. Always step back to the puppy rather than call them to you at least until they understand what stay is all about.

Gradually increase the distance and time you spend away from the puppy before returning for the reward. Once the puppy understands stay and can do so appropriately, you can then start having them come to you. Remember if you have the puppy sit, stay, then come and sit they will assume the reward is for the last action, which is the sit. They may not understand that they are being rewarded for the whole sequence, this is why it is broken down into two different events for initial training purposes.

Lie Down

Teaching your puppy to lie down can be done very much the same as the sit command. You can use the puppy's natural behavior to cue it to lie down, plus use their own natural movement to teach the command. First the puppy must sit on command. Get down on the floor with the puppy and show them a treat in your hand at their nose level. Move your hand, with the treat, down towards the floor and slightly to the front of the puppy, about 2 to 8 inches depending on the size of the puppy. The puppy will naturally move his or her head down and lower the front legs to a down position. As soon as the puppy is starting to move the front legs forward say down, then when they are on the floor completely give them the treat. For some puppies you may have to reward close approximations until they understand what you are requesting.

As with sitting never pull a puppies front legs forward or attempt to push down on their shoulders. Remember to keep pairing the command with the start of the action and the reward with the completion of the action.

Heel

To teach the puppy or dog to heel they must be comfortable with the leash and collar and understand the sit command. Start with the puppy or dog sitting beside your left leg. Give a command such as "Fido, Heel" then step off with your left leg. The puppy or dog will usually stand and follow. Stop and praise immediately. Have them sit and repeat this command until they get up and move on command with your verbal cue and the movement of your left leg. Never pull or tug harshly on the leash or try to drag the puppy along. Remember for tiny puppies you will need to start with tiny steps. Gradually increase the length of strides and time that you are walking before providing praise. The leash should be loose but not dragging, and the puppy should be following your left leg. If the puppy starts to go off the other direction or starts to pull, simple turn and walk the other direction, stopping as soon as the leash pulls taunt. This is usually enough correction and the puppy will learn to watch your leg to know where you are going. If the puppy runs ahead, simply stop and don't move until they stop pulling and are focused.

Never use a choke collar or correction collar on a puppy. Heeling is often a difficult concept for many puppies and the help of a trainer at a puppy obedience class is often beneficial for both puppy and owner.

Site map